Today I left the office a little early on a Friday to get home and spend some time pulling the carburetor. First I had to remove the air cleaner.
The 1964 Datsun 320 E1 Mark 3 engine has a Nikki 2D-30C dual down-draft carburetor. Rebuild kits are available but rare, but I found a firm that says they can rebuilt the Nikki and I plan to let them handle it. Carburetors are like black magic to me.
Here’s a shot of my air cleaner, which is in rough condition and also had the “horn” removed from the intake, maybe to increase airflow?
I started by loosening the base of the air cleaner from the carburetor by turning the adjustment rod counter-clockwise.
There is a wing nut on top that holds the lid onto the base, which I just twisted off. Then I lifted the lid
Inside was the old air filter, which I removed.
Then I just turned the adjustment rod counterclockwise some more to fully loosen the air cleaner base from the carburetor and lifted it off. Here’s a shot of the bottom of the air cleaner.
And here’s a close-up shot of the area where the air cleaner was modified. I think I am officially in the market for an unmolested air cleaner to replace this one.
Before getting started I took pictures of the carburetor from four different angles for posterity (and reassembly).
The carburetor mounts to four studs on the combination intake/exhaust manifold assembly via four nuts.
I used a 1/2″ box-end wrench to start loosening those nuts. Then I switched to a 1/2″ ratcheting wrench to try to spin them off.
Eventually the nut and a lock washer underneath it came off the stud. I removed the similar nut from the stud just behind the first one (firewall side).
The two nuts on the opposite (valve cover) side of the carburetor weren’t easy to access. I decided to remove the valve cover to get back there. It is attached with six Phillips head bolts.
With those unscrewed the valve cover popped right off. This was my first look inside.
With the valve cover gone, access to the nuts that hold the carburetor was improved. But a small hard line that acts as a breather from the carburetor around the back of the valve cover and into the block was in the way. Since I needed to removed this line from the carb to remove he carb, no time like the present.
I used a 3/8″ box end wrench to loosen the fitting holding the breather line to the base of the carb.
Then I pulled the hard line free.
I also had to remove the throttle arm that actuates butterfly valve in order to get access to those nuts. I used a slotted screwdriver to remove the pin attaching it to the butterfly shaft.
Then I pried off the spring.
And popped off the arm.
Now the nuts were barely reachable. I used my 1/2″ box wrench to loosen the front one.
And was able to get it off.
It took some time and patience, and I had to hold my box wrench at an angle to get purchase on the final valve cover/firewall corner nut, but I was able to get it loose and spin it with my finger…
The next thing I had to do was disconnect the hard fuel line attached to the carburetor.
Below are pics of where the fuel line connects to the fuel pump, and then to the banjo bolt on the carb.
The fuel line wasn’t threaded into the banjo bolt but seemed to be flared instead, so I couldn’t detach it there. I resolved to remove the fuel line fitting from the fuel pump and pull the line out with the carburetor, and then go from there.
I used a 1/2″ box end wrench to loosen the fitting holding the fuel line to the fuel pump.
Then I removed the throttle and choke cable linkages from the carburetor. I used a 3/8″ wrench and a slotted screwdriver to loosen the bolt that clamps the accelerator cable to the arm on the carb. Then I used the screwdriver to loosen the bolt that clamps the cable to the arm further upstream.
I was able to pull the accelerator cable back toward the firewall and free from the carburetor.
Similarly I used the screwdriver to release the choke cable from its linkage the valve cover side of the carburetor. Unfortunately it was also bolted into the valve cover side of the carb where I couldn’t access it with the carburetor still in place.
Finally I was able to pull the carburetor off the manifold. Success!
With the carburetor liberated from the manifold but still attached to the choke cable, I was able to turn it onto its side and use a 3/8″ socket to loosen the choke linkage arm and remove the choke cable. Sweet.
Here are a couple of pics I took of the engine bay after the carburetor was removed for reference.
Here are a couple of the fuel pump and intake/exhaust manifolds from above, visible without the air cleaner and carburetor.
And here are some of the dirty old carburetor, in need of a rebuild, from a few different angles.