Heater Hose Removal

Today I spent some time tidying up the engine bay. I removed the old heater hose which snaked from the rear of the engine block around toward the front.

The set-up was a bit curious, because there were no hoses connected to the heater core through the firewall. Also, since the engine came with what I believe to be the original cast iron fuel pump, which doesn’t have an outlet for a hose to the heater core, I plan to rationalize/correct/simplify the routing of heater hoses when I put this all back together. Namely, the outlet at the rear of the block will be connected via a short length of 1/2″ heater hose into the lower inlet of the heater core.

Then another longer section of heater hose will snake out of the upper heater core outlet, around the valve cover on the left side and turn right next to the thermostat housing and then run down into a new inlet connect on the new water pump.

Blue Engine Bits

This afternoon I cleaned up and painted some of the engine bits and pieces such as the generator mounting bracket, water pump pulley, and thermostat housing outlet. I wanted to return all of these part to their original factory Datsun engine blue color. I bought the paint in an aerosol spray can from Al at Datsun Parts LLC, via ebay.

I started with the generator mounting bracket. I used a wire brush mounted in my drill to remove the old paint and rust from the surface of the steel bracket.

Then I did the same to the cast iron thermostat housing and the water pump pulley.

I used a screen scouring pad to rub all three pieces down with some Metal Prep, which removes residual rust, etches the metal for paint, and dries to leave a rust-inhibiting coating on the part.

Here are all the prepped parts. The pulley has a dull shine, but where some stubborn surface rust remained around the edges you can see the converted rust has turned black.

I primed all three parts using Rustoleum white Clean Metal Primer.

I primed one side and after about a half hour flipped them over to prime the other side.

Then I used Al’s Datsun Engine Blue.

Water Pump Removal/New Water Pump

The last thing I did today was to remove the water pump.  I plan to replace the water pump with a new one because fortunately, new aftermarket water pumps are available for the E1 engine from Gates, part #42324.

The water pump on my truck, which is cast iron and I believe the original OEM water pump, only has one large outlet for the lower radiator hose. This set-up requires an in-line fitting to connect this plumbing to a long, smaller hose running from the top of the heater core.

However, the Gates pump, which is a later design perhaps for the J13 engine, has an integrated second, smaller outlet, to connect the heater hose.  The Gates pump has the threading for the outlet, but does not come with a hose fitting, so I procured one (Moroso part #65390) and used an 18mm socket to thread it into the pump.  The correct fitting for this pump and the hose is a 1/2″ barbed hose fitting with a 3/8″ Male NPT fitting.

Here’s a shot of the nice new Gates water pump ready to be installed.

I removed the old water pump from the engine. The water pump is attached to the block by three long bolts. I used a 1/2″ socket to remove those bolts.

With the three bolts removed, the water pump pulled off easily.

Inside the block there was some coolant, but it didn’t look like too much rust, mud, or other crud, which is a good sign.

Here is a side-by-side comparison of the two water pumps that highlights the location of the second water outlet on the new one.

Water Pump Pulley Removal

Next I removed the water pump pulley from the water pump.  The pulley is mechanically fastened to the water pump by four long bolts that thread through the radiator fan, fan spacer, and pulley, into threaded holes in the water pump. Since I removed those already in order to pull the fan blades, I just had to dislodge the water pump pulley manually because the only thing holding it onto the water pump was nearly 50 years of habit.

Here’s the inner surface of the pulley. It appears to have been originally painted Datsun engine blue. Although there was some surface rust and flaking paint, the pulley is in solid shape.

I used some Simple Green and scouring pads and a wire brush to clean up and degrease the pulley, and to remove any loose paint.

It cleaned up well and I applied some metal prep to the bare metal and rusty spots.

Thermostat Removal

This afternoon I pulled the thermostat, which I will replace.  The thermostat sits inside a housing with an integrated a water outlet.  When the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat opens and allows water and coolant to flow through the outlet and out to the radiator, to cool the engine.

The housing is bolted into three studs on the front of the head.  I used a 1/2″ socket in my wrench to remove those nuts.

After I removed all the nuts the water outlet didn’t want to come off the engine. I used a rubber mallet to do some persuading and it popped off.

I pulled the water outlet off the head. Visible on the underside is the mounting bolt for the generator arm.

Here’s a shot of the inside of the head under the outlet. Surprise! No thermostat. That’s interesting. What looks like a shiny pin in there I believe is a drainage plug that can be removed to drain the engine block.

And here is the water outlet after I gave it a good cleaning with a wire brush, scouring pads, and some Simple Green. It appears it originally was painted Datsun engine blue.

Fan belt removal

Next I pulled the fan belt.  The fan belt runs from the crank pulley up around the water pump pulley, and around the generator pulley.  It’s a simple set-up from before the age of power steering and air conditioning.

In order to release the belt and allow enough slack to remove it, I loosened the generator, which is mounted along a curved arm that is mounted to a plate on the engine.  The generator-mounting arm has a slot in it that a bolt connects through to allow the location of the generator pulley to tighten the belt.  So essentially the generator, based on its location, also acts as a tensioner pulley.

I used a 9/16″ socket to loosen the head of the bolt. The bolt is oriented facing with threads pointed down the highway (with the head of the bolt on the back side of the arm), and threads into the base plate of the generator.

With the bolt loosened but not removed, I slid the generator up and toward the engine, providing some slack in the belt.

And then I was able to slip the belt off of all the pulleys and remove it.

There does appear to be an aftermarket replacement belt available for this application; more on that later.

Radiator Fan removal and restoration

Today I spent some time removing the radiator fan, cleaning it up, and giving it a fresh coat of paint.  The fan has four blades and is composed of two metal pieces, and bolts directly to the water pump pulley.

Here’s a shot of the fan and the four bolts that mount it to the water pump through the pulley:

I used a 9/16″ socket to remove the four bolts and washers.

Directly behind the fan blades was a spacer block that provides clearance between the pulley and the fan blades.

I pulled the two blades off the spacer and then pulled the spacer off the water pump pulley.

Here is a shot of the pulley still in place.  It is held to the water pump by those bolts I removed above, so it is just hanging in place without a mechanical connection.

I used some Simple Green and elbow grease with a green scouring pad to clean up the fan blades.

The blades each cleaned up very nicely.

After allowing the fan blades to dry, I sprayed on some white Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer.

Then after allowing the primer to dry for 30 minutes, I sprayed on some gloss white Rustoleum.

After the one side dried I painted the other side of each fan blade and they look good as new.

Radiator sent out for re-core

Today I dropped of the radiator to be re-cored.  Last week I tried to take it to a big place down in Baltimore called Cummins Radiator, which has been in business since 1911.  Unfortunately when I got down there it was more of a warehouse selling new radiators with a small office in the back where an older gentleman handled the repairs.  He quoted me a price of $550 for a re-core and assured me that my radiator needed to be re-cored.  When I had my roadster radiator re-cored with a three-row core it was like $200.  Granted, that was a few years ago but I decided to look for alternatives.

I found a place up in York, PA, called West York Radiator Service that seemed to get positive reviews online.  I called them and they said to drop by.  So today, after a pre-school field trip in that general direction, we shot up to York (my wife was thrilled to find out about this) and dropped off the radiator.

The owner, Harry, asked me if I was certain the radiator needed to be re-cored.  I said I wasn’t sure, and he said if it didn’t I could save some money.  After I got home later in the afternoon Harry called and told me the radiator didn’t need a re-core, and he had pressure tested it and found a leak, which he had repaired, and I could come pick it up.  Great!

Radiator removal, part 2

Today I finally got back to working on the truck and finished pulling the radiator. Last month I removed the upper hose and mounting bolts.

The lower hose was too stubborn to pull off the water pump outlet, so I used my utility knife to slit it. Coolant!

Last time I was worried that the engine and cooling system had been dry, but the coolant flowed out and into the drain pan I had stationed underneath.

With the lower hose liberated, I was able to pull the radiator up and out of the engine bay.

I lifted the radiator out and put it in the pan to drain.

Here are the mounting bolts. They were of two different sizes, top and bottom, and I suspect they were not the original factory bolts.

I removed the remains of the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, first loosening up the hose clamp with a slotted screwdriver.

And then I slit and peeled the hose off the outlet.

And I pulled the upper radiator hose off the thermostat outlet.

The lower hose was still connected to the radiator, as I had freed it from the water pump. I slashed the hose around the radiator inlet and pulled it off by hand.

Here are the two old braided hoses.

Next I wanted to thoroughly flush the cooling system. I attached a gallon water jug to the water pump outlet on the lower end of the system to catch the effluent and held a garden hose to the thermostat outlet at the upper end.

This worked surprisingly well and I was able to flush the coolant out of the system by repeating the process.

Afterwards I captured the coolant from my drain pan as well.

In total I flushed around a gallon and a half of coolant and water from the engine and radiator.  I took the waste coolant to my local landfill where they accept it for disposal.

I tidied up by stuffing some shop towels into the openings in the cooling system to keep out the mice and also to soak up anything that may drip out.

Here is the fan, which is now visible from the front with the radiator removed.

And here is the engine bay on the generator side.

Now that the radiator is removed I plan to send it off to get it inspected and repaired or re-cored.