After removing the fan belt I removed the generator adjustment arm. The generator hangs from a curved arm with a slot in it that allows for adjustment to tighten the fan belt. The arm itself mounts to the the thermostat outlet by a single bolt that threads back (towards the firewall).
I used a 1/2″ socket to loosen and remove the bolt, leaving the arm attached the generator.
With the arm removed from the engine, the generator was still attached by its mounting bracket which bolts into the side of the engine block and tethered into the engine bay by electrical connections. I just set it down on the battery tray and threaded the bolt back into its hole so I don’t lose it.
Then I removed the arm from the generator using a 9/16″ socket to loosen the adjustment bolt.
Next I pulled the fan belt. The fan belt runs from the crank pulley up around the water pump pulley, and around the generator pulley. It’s a simple set-up from before the age of power steering and air conditioning.
In order to release the belt and allow enough slack to remove it, I loosened the generator, which is mounted along a curved arm that is mounted to a plate on the engine. The generator-mounting arm has a slot in it that a bolt connects through to allow the location of the generator pulley to tighten the belt. So essentially the generator, based on its location, also acts as a tensioner pulley.
I used a 9/16″ socket to loosen the head of the bolt. The bolt is oriented facing with threads pointed down the highway (with the head of the bolt on the back side of the arm), and threads into the base plate of the generator.
With the bolt loosened but not removed, I slid the generator up and toward the engine, providing some slack in the belt.
And then I was able to slip the belt off of all the pulleys and remove it.
There does appear to be an aftermarket replacement belt available for this application; more on that later.
Today I spent some time removing the radiator fan, cleaning it up, and giving it a fresh coat of paint. The fan has four blades and is composed of two metal pieces, and bolts directly to the water pump pulley.
Here’s a shot of the fan and the four bolts that mount it to the water pump through the pulley:
I used a 9/16″ socket to remove the four bolts and washers.
Directly behind the fan blades was a spacer block that provides clearance between the pulley and the fan blades.
I pulled the two blades off the spacer and then pulled the spacer off the water pump pulley.
Here is a shot of the pulley still in place. It is held to the water pump by those bolts I removed above, so it is just hanging in place without a mechanical connection.
I used some Simple Green and elbow grease with a green scouring pad to clean up the fan blades.
The blades each cleaned up very nicely.
After allowing the fan blades to dry, I sprayed on some white Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer.
Then after allowing the primer to dry for 30 minutes, I sprayed on some gloss white Rustoleum.
After the one side dried I painted the other side of each fan blade and they look good as new.
Today the new valve cover oil filler cap I ordered from Nissan arrived in the mailbox. The one on the truck is very plain and I wanted to get one of the cool chrome ones I’ve seen that have the classic Japanese characters.
So I did some research to find the right part. The part number for the E-1 engine oil filler originally was 15265-30800 but Nissan lists that part as NLA (no longer available). So I know a lot of these parts crossover from similar Datsun vehicles of the time. I had a hunch that the 1500 roadster may share the oil filler cap with the 320 truck. Luckily, several years ago I ordered a similar old chrome cap for the roadster I’m restoring, which is a 1968 2000, and I happen to know that that cap also fits the 1600 roadsters (same part number). I couldn’t find a part number for the 1500 filler cap, but I dug up the cap I bought for my 2000 from my roadster parts stash and lo and behold it fit the E-1 valve cover nicely. Sweet.
So I ordered a new one from Nissan and it arrived today. The part number is 15255-B3430. List price is $12.60 but I got it from nissanparts.cc, which is the online parts department for Bruce Titus Nissan in Olympia, WA, for $9.78 plus shipping.
Should be a nice touch of JDM nostalgia on the valve cover.
Happy New Year!
Today I came home to find my rebuilt carburetor had been delivered to the house. It took longer than expected, but when I called Chicago Carburetor to chase it down they said it had been finished for some time and they had just neglected to send it out. Anyway, it was like a late Christmas present for the Datsun.
It looks brand new!