New Filters!

Last week I ordered some replacement air, fuel, and oil filters from Rockauto. I was pretty pleased to find the filters still available. These are from Fram, which aren’t known as the best filters in the world, but frankly are probably as good or better than the ones that came on the truck in the mid-1960s. Plus I got a rebate!

The air filter is part # CA352.

The fuel filter is part #G3359.

The oil filter cartridge is part #CH820PL.

There is also a WIX oil filter cartridge available that is part #51300.

Engine Bay Clean-Up

The final thing I did today was to clean up some of the areas in the engine bay that have been exposed as a result of removing pieces to clean-up, paint, repair, and/or replace.

The timing chain cover, now accessible with the radiator and fan removed, was covered in 50 years of dirt, grease, and road grime.

I wet the area down with a spray bottle, and then sprayed it with some Simple Green, which I have found to be a really good de-greaser. Then I scrubbed it with a stiff brush.

I also used a blue, coarse scouring pad and a lot of elbow grease to scrub away a lot of the dirt. There was some corrosion underneath, but not too much. It came pretty clean.

Next I spent some time scrubbing the steering box, which was also caked with greasy grime.

I also spent a lot of time scrubbing and cleaning up the top section of the exhaust manifold.

Here is a look at the engine bay after tidying up a bit. Still a long way to go.

Removed Oil Filter Housing

Later in the afternoon I removed and cleaned up the oil filter housing.  Modern engines typically have a screw-on plastic-shelled integrated oil filer that screws up into a mount on the engine from underneath.  The E-1 engine has a cartridge-style oil filter that resembles a modern one (though probably more primitive) with its outer shell removed.  The cartridge-style (paper) filter slides onto a shaft and is protected by a metal, distinctive dome-shaped housing.  This set-up is located facing upwards on the battery-side of the engine bay behind the generator and in front of the distributor, just below the spark plugs.

I used a 5/8″ socket to loosen the threaded rod that holds the oil filter housing into its mount.

When the rod came out I lifted it away and it brought the housing up with it. Below on the right is a shot of the oil filter and housing mounting point.

Here is the oil filter that was on the truck.

The filter housing itself was very dirty, but clearly had originally been painted in Datsun engine blue, so I decided to repaint it that color.

I sprayed it down with water and some Simple Green, and then used a blue scouring pad to scrub it.

There was a fair amount of surface rust on the housing, although it is very solid. I used some Metal Prep to treat the rust and bare metal surfaces. That’s as far as I got on this day.

Drained the Oil Pan

After I drained the fuel from the gas tank, I drained the engine oil. The oil pan is located right in front of the front frame cross-member, and the drain plug is right at the front and center of the pan.

I sprayed some Simple Green on the drain plug and scrubbed it with a stiff brush to clean off the grime and road dirt that had accumulated there.

With the head of the drain plug cleaned off, I used an adjustable crescent wrench to loosen the plug. The head of the plug was too large for any of my sockets.

After unscrewing the plug the rest of the way with my hand, the engine oil drained into my drain pan. It’s good news that the engine was in fact full of oil and the oil seemed to be in decent condition.

After the oil drained I replaced the drain plug.

I plan to find a replacement drain plug and copper washers if I can. More on that later.

Drained the Gas Tank

I drained the old fuel out of the gas tank this afternoon. The fuel tank is located at the rear of the truck, under the bed. You put gas in the truck through the rear fender on the driver’s side in the U.S. (not sure about elsewhere) so the fuel tank is located just below that, inside and below that fender.

There is a drainage plug at the bottom of the fuel tank. In the picture below the drive shaft is visible for reference. I sprayed some Simple Green on the drain plug to loosen up nearly 50 years of dirt, grease, and grime covering the head of the plug.

Then I used a stiff brush to scrub away at the drain plug, revealing its head.

I positioned a drain pan underneath the gas tank and used a 3/4″ socket on my wrench to loosen the drain plug.

After it loosened up I finished unwinding the drain plug by hand, and the gas drained out.

The good news is that the gas looks very clear and the viscosity is thin. I don’t know how long this gas has been in the tank, but I suspect the truck hasn’t run in many years, maybe even a decade or more. Just as I was getting a little nervous that my drain pan might not be adequate, the gas slowed to a trickle and stopped draining.

It was a pretty good quantity of gas, and had an amber hue to it.

I reinstalled the drain plug to finger tight, and then tightened it up some more with the 3/4″ socket.

A final shot of the gas tank drain plug.

And here is a shot down the gas filler neck. I tried to ascertain whether there was a lot of sediment inside the gas tank, but couldn’t really tell.

Blue Engine Bits

This afternoon I cleaned up and painted some of the engine bits and pieces such as the generator mounting bracket, water pump pulley, and thermostat housing outlet. I wanted to return all of these part to their original factory Datsun engine blue color. I bought the paint in an aerosol spray can from Al at Datsun Parts LLC, via ebay.

I started with the generator mounting bracket. I used a wire brush mounted in my drill to remove the old paint and rust from the surface of the steel bracket.

Then I did the same to the cast iron thermostat housing and the water pump pulley.

I used a screen scouring pad to rub all three pieces down with some Metal Prep, which removes residual rust, etches the metal for paint, and dries to leave a rust-inhibiting coating on the part.

Here are all the prepped parts. The pulley has a dull shine, but where some stubborn surface rust remained around the edges you can see the converted rust has turned black.

I primed all three parts using Rustoleum white Clean Metal Primer.

I primed one side and after about a half hour flipped them over to prime the other side.

Then I used Al’s Datsun Engine Blue.

Fuel Pump Removal

This morning I spent some time removing the old fuel pump from the engine. This is not the original fuel pump that came with the E-1 engine, but instead looks like a J13 fuel pump that came on the later 520 trucks. Those two are interchangeable, but unfortunately I haven’t been able to locate either an E-1 or J13 aftermarket replacement mechanical fuel pump anywhere.

Here are some shots of the Nikki fuel pump. The rubber hose still attached to the pump feeds from the fuel filter and before that a hard line from the gas tank. The second outlet from the fuel pump which isn’t attached to anything previously was connected to a hard line going up to the carburetor.

Here you can see the fuel line connections and where the fuel pump bolts into the engine block.

I used a flat head screwdriver to loosen and remove the hose clamp holding the rubber fuel supply line to the barbed outlet on the fuel pump.

Then I used a 1/2″ socket on my wrench with 6″ extension that I slipped underneath the steering column to loosen each of two nuts mounting the fuel pump.

With those nuts removed from the studs on the engine block I was able to pull the fuel pump off the engine.

Then I was able to work the rubber fuel supply hose off the barbed fuel pump inlet.

Here’s a shot of the the fuel pump mounting plate and also one of the mounting point and studs.

I pulled off the spacer block…

and plugged up the opening in the engine block with a shop towel.

Water Pump Removal/New Water Pump

The last thing I did today was to remove the water pump.  I plan to replace the water pump with a new one because fortunately, new aftermarket water pumps are available for the E1 engine from Gates, part #42324.

The water pump on my truck, which is cast iron and I believe the original OEM water pump, only has one large outlet for the lower radiator hose. This set-up requires an in-line fitting to connect this plumbing to a long, smaller hose running from the top of the heater core.

However, the Gates pump, which is a later design perhaps for the J13 engine, has an integrated second, smaller outlet, to connect the heater hose.  The Gates pump has the threading for the outlet, but does not come with a hose fitting, so I procured one (Moroso part #65390) and used an 18mm socket to thread it into the pump.  The correct fitting for this pump and the hose is a 1/2″ barbed hose fitting with a 3/8″ Male NPT fitting.

Here’s a shot of the nice new Gates water pump ready to be installed.

I removed the old water pump from the engine. The water pump is attached to the block by three long bolts. I used a 1/2″ socket to remove those bolts.

With the three bolts removed, the water pump pulled off easily.

Inside the block there was some coolant, but it didn’t look like too much rust, mud, or other crud, which is a good sign.

Here is a side-by-side comparison of the two water pumps that highlights the location of the second water outlet on the new one.

Water Pump Pulley Removal

Next I removed the water pump pulley from the water pump.  The pulley is mechanically fastened to the water pump by four long bolts that thread through the radiator fan, fan spacer, and pulley, into threaded holes in the water pump. Since I removed those already in order to pull the fan blades, I just had to dislodge the water pump pulley manually because the only thing holding it onto the water pump was nearly 50 years of habit.

Here’s the inner surface of the pulley. It appears to have been originally painted Datsun engine blue. Although there was some surface rust and flaking paint, the pulley is in solid shape.

I used some Simple Green and scouring pads and a wire brush to clean up and degrease the pulley, and to remove any loose paint.

It cleaned up well and I applied some metal prep to the bare metal and rusty spots.

Thermostat Removal

This afternoon I pulled the thermostat, which I will replace.  The thermostat sits inside a housing with an integrated a water outlet.  When the engine reaches operating temperature, the thermostat opens and allows water and coolant to flow through the outlet and out to the radiator, to cool the engine.

The housing is bolted into three studs on the front of the head.  I used a 1/2″ socket in my wrench to remove those nuts.

After I removed all the nuts the water outlet didn’t want to come off the engine. I used a rubber mallet to do some persuading and it popped off.

I pulled the water outlet off the head. Visible on the underside is the mounting bolt for the generator arm.

Here’s a shot of the inside of the head under the outlet. Surprise! No thermostat. That’s interesting. What looks like a shiny pin in there I believe is a drainage plug that can be removed to drain the engine block.

And here is the water outlet after I gave it a good cleaning with a wire brush, scouring pads, and some Simple Green. It appears it originally was painted Datsun engine blue.